What to see:

So how to do Cuba best?

Havana: and Santiago de Cuba are the country's rival cities.

The effusive, happy nature of Havana residents is almost enough to keep you going through the long, long nights of music, theatre, cabaret and cinemas that must be experienced to be believed.

But the rum and cigars certainly helps you last the distance (though the next day you might wish you hadn't!).

Santiago de Cuba: has a more Caribbean than Spanish flavour which is unusual for Cuba.

Its architecture is the oldest on the island and boasts impressive ironmongery.

Haitian and French settlers from the last century have left their own marks on this city of culture.

Baracoa: Those who like to be in the town but prefer a quieter experience could do worse than try Baracoa.

Baracoa was inaccessible by land until 40 years ago and is beautifully situated above two bays and protected by three large forts. Definitely worth a visit if you're not on a tight travel schedule.

Western Cuba: is thought by many to be the most beautiful part of the island with its long, deserted white sand beaches, clear sea and exotic reefs.

It is perfect for anchoring a yacht, or for those with less money, spending time scuba diving or snorkelling.

The limestone bedrock has been carved by time, weather and water into wierd and wonderful natural sculptures and is honeycombed with caves which cry out to be explored.

If you don't want tourist parks or pampering and are happy to try and get by on your own, southern Cuba's Granma province is the least spoilt and home to much history.

For those who really want to commune with nature and like a bit of an adventure, try and find your way to the coral splendour of Archipielago de los Canarreos - you won't be disappointed.

Get to the Isla de la Juventud and turn east for turtles. Blue seas for diving, white beaches for bathing, mountains for climbing, views accessible by horseback, abundant flora and fauna, big fat cigars, cold beers, smooth, strong rum . . . that's Cuba.

A Spanish ambiance in crumbling colonial splendour . . . that's Cuba. Caribbean sun under a socialist sky . . . that's Cuba too. And you might even get to meet Castro!

So, what's holding you back?

Just so you know:

Speak - Spanish

Money - US$ (many credit cards and travellers cheques won't work in Cuba because the Americans have sabotaged them)

Jabs - check them out. Don't drink the water

When to go - Anytime you like

Safety - just be sensible

Eco-view - You may have trouble finding a non-smoking section!

Must take - extra suitcase to fill with cigars and rum to take home

Word of advice: When hiring a car in Cuba make sure that you check out the drop-off rate. This applies if you want to hire a car in one place and then drop it off in another.

These rates vary with each car hire company but can prove to be quite expensive.

Transtur seems pretty reasonable and seemed to have a large network throughout the island.