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What to see:

Bangkok: Not everyone loves a noisy, smelly city like Bangkok but it's worth spending a few days here to see the gorgeous palaces or one of the 400 Wats.

Visitors shouldn't miss the Grand Palace and wat Traimit, the Temple of the Golden Buddha - 51/2 tons of solid golden Buddha. River taxis or the new monorail are recommended to avoid traffic problems.

Other sights include the touristy but fascinating floating market at Thornburi. Entertainment includes picking your supper from an array of street restaurants where tables are weighed down by hundreds of fish and seafoods, Thai Boxing or night shopping in the markets behind Ratchaprarop Rd

Ayuthaya: A fabulous collection of 16th to 18th century temple ruins and palaces which hurl you back to a time when 33 kings of Siamese dynasties ruled. They do nothing for the soles of your feet but they shouldn't be missed. Buses or tours from Bangkok are easy to arrange.

Chiang Mai: A lovely place of shops, soup stalls and Wats such as the Wat Chiang Man - home of the crystal Buddha.

Take a look at the Night Bazaar. This is one of the places to arrange a trek to visit hill tribes. Watch out though, some places are over-trekked - think twice before you contribute to disturbing the daily pattern of hill tribe life too much. Flights to Chiang Mai are frequent.

Phuket: Dubbed the 'Pearl of the South' by the tourist industry, Phuket is Thailand's largest island and lies in the Andaman Sea off the country's south-western coast.

The island's terrain varies from rocky beaches and long, broad sweeps of sand to limestone cliffs and forested hills. It has good beaches, tropical vegetation and a pleasant, relaxed atmosphere, but its ambience and ecology are under pressure from extensive and irresponsible development.

The main resorts include Patong, Karon and Kata, but better beaches are scattered all around the island. Roads radiate from Phuket Town, in the south-east of the island, making it a good base for exploring.

Don't ignore the island's interior which has rice paddies, plantations of rubber and cashew nut, cacao, pineapple and coconut, as well as Phuket's last slice of rainforest.

There are plenty of flights to Phuket from Bangkok. First-class air-con buses take about 14 hours to reach the island from the capital.

Local transport includes songthaews, which run to many of the island's beaches, and motorcycle taxis.

Motorcycles and jeeps can also be hired by the day.

(A law passed in 1996 makes it compulsory to wear helmets, so be sure to get one from the company that rented you the motorcycle - the fine can be up to 500 baht if you fail to comply.)

Ko Samui: Just one of the many beautiful islands off the south coast: white sand, palm trees, blue seas. Theses days like most of the southern beaches it's closer to a tourist resort than a backpacker's secret.

For those who want comfort that's a good thing and in most cases development is tasteful. If you want the quieter life though travel a bit further to Ko Pha-Ngan. Flights go direct from Bangkok.

Prasat Hin Khao Phanom Rung Historical Park: This is the Khmer temple complex located on an extinct volcano in north eastern Thailand - the largest and best restored of all the Khmer monuments.

Visit early while it's cool enough to enjoy and relatively empty. It takes a couple of buses to get here but it's worth it.

Thaleh Ban National Park: 101 sq km park on the Thai-Malaysian border contains one of south east asia's best preserved sections of white meranti rainforest.

Hilly terrain includes caves, waterfalls, limestone cliffs, lake views and wildlife including mouse deer, gibbons, macaques and many rare bird species.

You can camp or bunk at the longhouses on the shores of the lake.

When to go:

Probably the best time to go is between November and February when there's less rain and it's not too hot.

If you want the beaches and the south then head off sometime between March and May but watch out - the rest of Thailand will be miserably hot.

If you're not so fussed about the beaches and are heading to the cooler north then go in the British winter when it starts to warm up.

Peak times are December and August.

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